Proper Maintenance - The Be-all and End-all
How do I keep the blade, the grind and the handle of my axes, hatchets and splitting hammers as long as possible? Not only professionals know that good care and correct storage extend the life of axes and axes. With the right know-how and a few simple steps, the sharpness of the blade, the quality of the wood and the connection between the head and the handle can be permanently maintained. So that forestry tools keep their promise for a long time.
Maintenance after Use
First the rag, then the head work
Timber and forestry work is exhausting! After what feels like 100m3 of wood have finally been felled and stacked, it is tempting to just hang the axe or the sledgehammer in the shed and put your feet up. If you invest a little time, you win in the long run. After use, cleaning and care are important - a small effort with a big effect. Clean the axe head with a rag and rub it with a cloth and a drop of anti-corrosion oil. Unfortunately, marks such as scratches and scratches cannot be avoided on impact tools. If you want to restore your tool to its former shape, you can also clean it with a grindstone. A short guide in four steps.1. Pre-grind and file out the quirks from the cutting edge
Tools and materials:
- Double grinder
- File or grindstone
- Water for cooling
Coarse nicks and scratches can be pre-machined well on a double sanding machine or with a file. When using a double grinder, grinding in or against the direction of rotation is a matter of taste. If you grind against the direction of rotation, there is less burr. In the direction of rotation, on the other hand, there is less danger of tilting - this grinding technique is therefore particularly advantageous for coarse cutting edges.
It is important to always grind evenly on both sides of the cutting edge to maintain the original shape.Tip: Mark the round contour on the axe head with a fibre pencil and try not to change the cutting angle when grinding.
The axe's pads and cheeks have a crowned shape - "flattening" can have a negative effect on the service life of the cutting edge. To be on the safe side, use a fine-toothed flat file. When grinding at an angle, the file or disc should also always treat the entire surface of the cutting edge so that no bulbous grinding occurs.
Especially when machining the axe head, attention must be paid to the heat generated. If the axe head turns bluish - a so-called "tempering colour" - this is an unmistakable sign that the steel has become too hot. The motto is therefore "cool, cool, cool" and do not exert too much force when working.
It is important to always grind evenly on both sides of the cutting edge to maintain the original shape.Tip: Mark the round contour on the axe head with a fibre pencil and try not to change the cutting angle when grinding.
The axe's pads and cheeks have a crowned shape - "flattening" can have a negative effect on the service life of the cutting edge. To be on the safe side, use a fine-toothed flat file. When grinding at an angle, the file or disc should also always treat the entire surface of the cutting edge so that no bulbous grinding occurs.
Especially when machining the axe head, attention must be paid to the heat generated. If the axe head turns bluish - a so-called "tempering colour" - this is an unmistakable sign that the steel has become too hot. The motto is therefore "cool, cool, cool" and do not exert too much force when working.
2. put the finishing touches
Tools and materials:
- Coarse grindstone
- Fine grindstone
- Water or petroleum
To remove the burr and sharpen the edge, a whetstone such as the OX 3000-0200 is best suited. Moisten the whetstone for best results.
The grindstone should not curl even after prolonged use. So work the axe rather with the edges of the stone, turn it regularly and grind both sides to remove the sharpened edge.
If the grindstone is rubbed down in between, any adhering grinding burrs that could damage the cutting edge are removed. Of course, it is also important to clean the whetstone thoroughly after use - this can be done with simple household remedies such as a nail brush and washing-up liquid.
The grindstone should not curl even after prolonged use. So work the axe rather with the edges of the stone, turn it regularly and grind both sides to remove the sharpened edge.
If the grindstone is rubbed down in between, any adhering grinding burrs that could damage the cutting edge are removed. Of course, it is also important to clean the whetstone thoroughly after use - this can be done with simple household remedies such as a nail brush and washing-up liquid.
3. pull from the leather
Tools and material:
- Leather strap
For nostalgics or those who value detail: after fine-tuning, the axe can be sharpened with a leather strap. This also removes minimal burrs. The sharper a blade or axe is, the quicker it becomes blunt in use. Here you have to find the optimal sharpening for you. With soft woods, e.g. poplar, the axe can be sharper than with hard woods, e.g. oak. And a small but important hint: please make sure to pull the leather away from the cutting edge.
4. the finishing touch
Tools and materials:
- Anti-corrosion oil
- Soft cloth
After pre-grinding, removing quirks and scratches, fine grinding and sharpening, the axe is cleaned with a cloth. When burr residues and last traces have been removed, anti-corrosion oil is applied in fine doses to a soft cloth and spread over the entire axe head. The oil is completely absorbed into the head and seals the material. This step - cleaning and applying the oil - can be done after each use.
Storage of Forestry Tools
Not too dry, not too damp
Forestry tools are intended for use in the open air and can therefore withstand wind and weather - but incorrect storage in a place that is too damp or too dry can damage steel and wood.If the axe is stored too damp, flash rust will soon blossom on the axe head. This does not reduce safety when working with the axe, but it does look unsightly. The situation is different with the handle. Wood is a natural product and its physical properties change if it is stored in an excessively humid room climate. If the wood becomes damp, it loses strength, including bending strength. The handle can break more easily.
It should also not be too dry. If the axe handle loses moisture, the wood starts to work and changes its dimensions. More precisely, the wood shrinks and no longer sits firmly in the joint with the axe head.
Axe and co. are in good hands in the tool shed or a dry, unheated storage room without direct sunlight in winter.
OCHSENKOPF Grindstone And Blade Protection
Utensils for the care and storage of forestry tools
Further Topics
More OCHSENKOPF
Tips, Tricks and Things worth knowing
